Yunohanaso
B · 7.7 / 10right inn, right place
A modern rural-Japanese onsen ryokan perched over the Hokigawa River in Nasushiobara, remote enough that most guests come purely for the springs, the food and the hospitality. The river is the attraction, with two large private rock baths on its bank and an open-air onsen on the top suite's balcony, and the kaiseki is careful and prettily plated. KI-NRT found the stay unexpectedly compelling, while an earlier visitor thought it solid but not distinctive enough to return to, and the spring water itself is honest but unremarkable.
Scores
Food 4.5 / 5
Dinner is top-notch and prettily presented: a magnificent konbu-cured flounder with miso-vinegar dressing, a humble grated-corn soup with egg tofu and crab that made KI-NRT's eyes pop, iwana sashimi that was quite possibly the best he has ever had, and a simmered sea-bream head (tai kabuto-ni) that was the most impressive dish of all. There are few original creations, but each dish is made with great care, and zander86 also called the food great.
Bath 3.5 / 5
The two private rock baths beside the Hokigawa River, Aoba and Momiji, are the highlight, massive and well designed with a hypnotic river view, especially after dark, and KI-NRT recommends a session even if your room has its own onsen. Seven of eleven rooms have an in-room onsen and the rest use the communal baths. The spring rises beneath the inn, but the water is neither silky nor sulfurous, and zander86 found his in-room bath a little cold.
Service 4 / 5
Service is refined, with hospitable and charming staff in elegant silk kimonos, and KI-NRT compares the professionalism to Asaba. The welcome runs from two kinds of kuzumochi at check-in to small bites waiting in the room, and the lounge pours complimentary coffee, juice and beer, with whiskey and wine in the evening. Unusually, the same server (Ms. Watanabe) handles both dinner and breakfast, so your preferences are remembered the next morning.
Room 4 / 5
Izumo, one of two premium hanare suites, is 118 m² of light wood with a living room, tatami washitsu, dining area and separate bedroom, plus an indoor onsen and an open-air one on the river-facing balcony, and KI-NRT says it had everything he looks for in a top suite. Musashi, the other premium suite, is 80 m² with the open-air bath only. zander86 stayed in the renovated Owari room and found it solid, though his in-room onsen ran a little cold.
Place 3.5 / 5
The lounge, the private baths and the rooms all overlook the Hokigawa River with nothing but forest on the far bank, a soothing, mesmerizing view, and the modern rural Japanese building blends into its surroundings. A dilapidated building downriver is an eyesore if you lean out and look for it. Nasushiobara has none of the onsen-town charm of Kurokawa or Kinosaki and little nearby, so most guests come only for the springs, food and hospitality.
Getting there
- Tokyo — ~1h55, 0 transfers (estimated). Tohoku Shinkansen Tokyo->Nasushiobara ~1h15, then ~30 min by car/bus.
- Utsunomiya — ~0h50, 0 transfers (estimated). Tohoku Shinkansen Utsunomiya->Nasushiobara ~13 min, then ~30 min by car/bus.